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Task: Drilled out two skin to stiffener rivets
that were sitting proud and inserted MK-319-BS pulled rivets.
Riveted the trailing edge and installed the rod end bearings.
are the two holes after the rivets were drilled out. I was
very nervous that I wouldn't be able to get the rivets out
correctly or that the hole would get elongated. The AN3's
came right out though.
two holes with MK-319 pulled rivets in place. They fit right
in the same dimple and nobody will ever know after the center
holes are filled before painting.
I first removed all the clecos and the aluminum angle from
the trailing edge after letting the ProSeal cure for about
4 days. Notice the 60" long x 3/8" wide piece of
steel, I picked that up at a local steel fab. It was worth
every penny of the $43 I paid for it.
I then removed the blue plastic from both sides of the trailing
Here is the trailing edge with all the rivets in place ready
to be taped down.
I numbered each hole 1-5, began by setting every other #1
and then alternately set #3, #5, #2, #4, alternating which
end I started at. The idea here was to prevent the edge from
hooking in one direction.
then flipped the rudder over and used a mushroom set on the
manufactured side. I used the same technique and order of
riveting to keep pressure equal.
is my very expensive rod end bearing insertion/removal tool.
The plans can be found here.
The completed rudder!
Now its starting to look like an airplane!