Trevor & Dewey's RV-7 Construction Log

Empennage - Rudder

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Date: 9/12/2009
Task: Clecod together the rudder skeleton and final drilled all holes. Fabricated the R-917 shim and R-918 trim attachment strips.

I started by clecoing the R-606PP, R-607PP, and R-608PP reinforcement plates to the R-902 spar. I picked up a 3/8 bolt at the hardware store last night to center the large hole in R-606PP, R-902, and R-405PD rudder horn.

Here is a side view of the R-902 spar, R-904 bottom rib, R-904PD horn, and R-917 shim.
I match drilled the shim to the 904PD horn.

The 904PD horn, 917 shim, and 904 rib all clecod to the 902 spar.

Notice the R-710 rudder brace before trimming. Van's makes it pretty easy to mark trim lines.

Next I flutted the R-903 tip rib and R-912 counterbalance rib. Notice the slight bend in R-902. I flutted it too much and had to use the hand seamer to take some of the flutting out.

R-903 tip rib, perfectly square after fluting.

Then I clecod on the R-913 counterbalance skin to the two ribs, rear spar, and rudder skins. It took some work and bending of ribs to get the holes to all line up. I had forgotten to ensure the flanges on the ribs were all square before clecoing the skin on. Everything lined up once the flanges were adjusted.

Final drilled the counterbalance skin to the spar and ribs, final drilled the 901 L/R skins to the 902 spar and 904 bottom rib.

Clecod the R-916 trailing edge in place and aligned both skins

Another view of the counterbalance skin after final drilling.

Next it was time to trim and fit the R-910 rudder brace. There are 4 holes that must be match drilled on the 901 L/R skins to the brace. I found that other buildings had issues with edge distance and the tim line so I trimmed just to the top of the tim holes. It worked out great and left plenty of edge clearance.

Here are the R-918 bottom attachment strips after cutting to 18" long. The bottom one has been trimmed per DWG 7. The cutout has to fit around the R-910 rudder brace in the picture above.

I finally had a chance to use my cleco clams today! I fit the edge of the strips fluch against the R-904 rib and aligned the inboard edge so they were just barely touching the R-910 brace. I then placed 5 clamps along the strip and drilled #40.

Once the rudder was finished being final drilled I took the skeleton apart and started on the R-912 counterbalance rib. The E-614-020 lead counterweight has two holes pre-drilled already. The rib has just the forward hole drilled so I match drilled the aft hole. I drilled both holes to # 7 for a #10 bolt. I then used my #10 dimple dies to dimple the rib. Finally, I machine countersunk the counterweight for the dimple.