- Horizontal Stabilizer
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Task: Finished dimpling all parts and prepared
was a long day with a lot of progress. I first started by
dimpling HS-405. I then realized that I had forgotten to drill
the two nose rib holes in HS-706 on the right side. So I had
to cleco the rib back to the skin and match drill. I then
reamed all the holes in the skin and deburred. After looking
closely at the drawings, I realized I put too large of a notch
in HS-702. I called Van's this morning and they said it was
not an issue. The notch doesn't come even close to any rivet
holes, so there are no edge distance issues. After sanding/filing
all the edges of the skins and deburring all the holes, I
brought out my C-Frame for the first time. It was very straight
forward to use and went pretty fast once I got the hang of
it. The deburring and dimpling process is VERY time consuming.
I'm learning faster ways of deburring and realizing only 1/2
turn is necessary to remove any burrs. I also made a sanding
block for edge deburring. It seems to make things go a lot
Finally, as the evening hours set in, I was able wash both
HS skins with soap and water to degrease. I then washed with
alcohol and masked off the edges to prevent any overspray
getting on top of the skins. A good friend of mine who built
an RV-4 and RV-10 recommended I use rattle can self-etching
primer for the tail. I had already purchased Stewart Systems
EkoPrime, but elected to hold off on using it for now. I primed
the skins and plan on priming the ribs and spars in the morning.
the rear spar.
Out came the C-Frame to dimple the HS skins. It did take another set of hands to bend the skin out of the way on the inner rib holes.
Prepped the skin for priming. I used some 3M tape on the outside along the rivet lines to prevent any overspray. Once I was done spraying, I ran a rag with alcohol along the outside skin to remove any overspray.
First skin primed!